Know UP, Know Holi

India marks the arrival of spring with the festival of colors - Holi. While it is celebrated over 2 days across the country, the festivities in the state of Uttar Pradesh (UP) last more than 2 weeks! The towns of Mathura, Vrindavan, Barsana and Nandgaon are referred to as ‘Braj’ - the land of Lord Krishna. Each year, people here reenact legends of Shri Radha and Krishna, from over 5000 years ago.

Barsana

Barsana is the birthplace of Radha, and Nandgaon is the village where Krishna grew up.

On Day 1 of Holi, people of Barsana invite those of Nandgaon to celebrate the festival with them. The meeting point is the Radha Rani Temple, where initial rituals are performed by the ‘Samaj ’, which is a gathering of both sides. The 2 day celebration is popularly know as ‘Barsana Holi ’.

Like anywhere else, guests here are welcomed with sweets – Laddus; but the difference is these Laddus are showered on people from the temple’s terrace, causing a frenzy to get hold of them! It is believed only a lucky few get them, and yes I got one too! This is ‘Laddu Holi ’.

Transgender people have a special place in Barsana Holi. Known as 'Sakhis’, they are considered friends of the Lord and come in from all over India to be part of the celebration here.

Day 2 ends with ‘Lathmar Holi ’. It is believed Krishna along with his friends (Gwalas) teased Radha and the Gopis here in Barsana; and in retaliation the women used wooden sticks to beat them up! This scene is recreated where men from Nandgaon dress-up like Gwalas, and the women of Barsana playfully hit them with Lathis.

(Lathmar Picture Courtesy - Shounak Pal)

(Lathmar Picture Courtesy - Shounak Pal)

Nandgaon

The next day, people from Barsana visit Nandgaon to play Holi at the Nand Baba Mandir. The temple sits atop a hill and the narrow lanes leading to it are full of kids targeting you with colored water! Though covered from head to toe in ponchos and the camera wrapped in plastic, there is no way one can escape these colorful attacks.

The courtyard of the temple comes to life by afternoon, like a carnival full of colors, song and dance.

Holi water made of soaked Tesu flowers.

Vrindavan

The holy town is home to thousands of widows who were abandoned by their families. While they lived a secluded life for decades with no participation in festivals, it was after a Supreme Court directive in 2012 that certain NGOs dedicatedly worked for their upliftment. For the first time in 2013 the widows played Holi. Considered a major reform then, ‘Widow Holi ’ continues to be a special & unique event each year.

Varanasi

700 kms away from Vrindavan, the scene is completely different in Varanasi. It’s the only place in India where Lord Shiva is said to play Holi. To keep the demons satisfied, Shiva visits them at the great crematorium - Manikarnika Ghat - to celebrate the festival.

Deprived of colored powder or gulaal, the demons use what is available to them - pyre ashes; thus calling it ‘Bhasm Holi ’ (Bhasm is ashes of the dead) or ‘Masan Holi ’ (Masan means crematorium).

Till date, a group of Aghori Sadhus visit the ghat, perform rituals for the dead, post which Holi is played with ashes and white colored powder alone.

There is so much to explore in UP, it took me two visits (in March 2023 and March 2022) to compile this. The state is ever-welcoming, with traditions still alive, and people willing to introduce you to experiences that would last a lifetime.

- - - - -